Skin Needling

Skin Needling
Let’s talk about skin needling.
So, I’m sure most of you have heard about skin needling AKA Collagen Induction Therapy, Micro-needling, Dermal needling, at some point, so what is it exactly you may ask? What’s all the hype about?
Skin-needling is a controlled wound healing response create by a medical device specifically made to induce thousands of micro-channels within the skin at various depths, to trigger a wound healing cascaded that dependent on the depth can stimulate collagen induction. But did you know there are so many more functions/benefits that this treatment offers? Skin needling can help reboot cellular function, normalize melanogenesis (pigmentation cells), normalize keratinocytes (skin cells), Sebocytes (oil production), Stretch mark and Scar remodeling. Yes, the benefits are endless.
Skin Needling is by far my favorite treatment, as the effects on the epidermis & dermis are incredible, it can be used on all skin types and helps with so many different conditions like Acne. Rosacea, Pigmentation, stretch marks and hair loss. It is safe on pregnant and breast-feeding Mums (with no anesthetic of course), and I love that it is your own body doing the work.

I love the safety that there is not heat that can burn or damage the tissue (don’t get me wrong you can still damage the skin if you don’t know what you’re doing with needling but its less likely) and the skins barrier is kept intact (my biggest, biggest love is keep an intact barrier!!).

The skin is truly an incredible organ and skin needling is an amazing treatment that can be done anywhere on the body and this treatment truly highlights our incredible organs capabilities perfectly.
The release of epidermal growth factors (EGF) result in epidermal thickening, cellular communication and normalization of cell function and fibroblast response.
But with all this advantage you still need to know what depths, gauge, devices (yes there are a few different ones out there. EG rolling, Stamping, Meso-channeling, skin pens) and topicals that are safe to apply, even the go to hyaluronic acids that most use is not created equal. If you don’t have the correct molecular weight, you can cause irritation and possible granulomas in the skin as well as the potential to cause an orange peel effect on the skin if the incorrect settings are used.
So why am I telling you all this you may ask? Well now days there are so many online devices you as a consumer can buy, and although this may seem like a cheaper way to get your skin needling done. As you can see in my above statement there is a reason, you should not, and I urge you to trust the professional to this one.
Most Therapist have spent a lot of time and money into acquiring a Dermal Therapy degree, to better understand the skin and how to stimulate the required response, I use multiple settings in my treatments as the skins needs varies and correct depths are required to trigger different responses in the skin.
So, in a nutshell skin needling, at any depth over .25mm should only be performed by a qualified Therapist, and the at home devices that are acceptable for you to use, should be purchased via your clinician with clear instructions on hygiene, how to use and when to use in conjunction with your clinic treatments.
And no, this treatment it is not a case of more is better, nor it is a case of better results from deeper channels or more pinpoint bleeding etc. In fact, when I’m treating your skin, yes, we get an inflammatory response via the skin needling but my goal and the way I treat skin needling is to bring that inflammation down as quickly as I can, with multiple techniques, so the skin can do its job more effectively.
So, what are the benefits of skin needling if you are after improvements with scarring, stretch marks this is one of the devices I would recommend. If you are looking for help with pigmentation of all forms skin, hair loss, wrinkles, both fine and static or if you have volume loss, skin laxity, acne, vascular concerns or just wanting to keep a youthful appearance for longer! Yes, you guessed it, skin needling is one of the modalities you will see me reach for to help you achieve your skin goals.

Let’s talk about down time.

The down time with skin needling is generally a few days of erythema (redness) tightness and a little dryness, there is also a chance of mild peeling and if that does occur will generally happen around day 3 to 4 and last a few days, you must never pick and pull at this just let the skin do its thing. I like to tackle my post treatments with a goal of bringing the inflammation down as quickly as possible.

How often should I get Skin Needling treatments?

This really does depend on the individual treatment plan, treatment goals and area treated. On average, it is recommended that 3-6 treatments should be done in a session pack, for the best results and they should be spaced around 4-6 weeks apart. Note, each person will vary slightly, hair treatments will be done at more regular intervals, and this will all be discussed in your consultation.

Are there any contraindications?

Yes, there are many that we need to consider in skin needling as listed below:

Conditions that would mean you were not able to have this treatments:

• Hemophilia, blood clotting problems (ie poor wound healing)
• Papulopustular rosacea
• Acne Vulgaris stage III-IV
• Solar Keratosis
• Undergoing chemotherapy or immune therapy
• Connective tissue disorders / auto immune disorders (e.g. lupus)
• Long term use of Prednisone and other steroid medications (treatment will increase inflammation)
• Pregnant/Nursing
• HIV/AIDS
• Anticoagulants / Blood thinners (including but limited to Warfarin or aspirin)
• Nickel or stainless steal allergies
• Scleroderma
• Collagen vascular diseases
• Solar keratosis

Conditions that need a doctors letter to confirm the treatment is suitable before treatments can begin:

• Transplant Anti-Rejection Drug
• Heart Disease
• Hypertension (High blood pressure treated with medication)
• Cancer – after 12 months
• Insulin Dependent Diabetes

The list below is of things that require a waiting period until you can start treatments:

Wait until completely clear and healed

• Active bacterial, fungal or viral skin infection of any type in the area to be treated
• Active Herpes – cold sores — (even if inactive take anti-viral medication 2 weeks pre and post treatment (peels & needling)
• Warts in area to be treated
• Sunburn in the treatment area
• Inflammation
• Open Lesion on area to be treated

Waiting times for specific procedures (on area to be treated)

• Recent facial operations – At least 3 months post-surgery
• Isoretinoin (e.g. Roaccutane) – 6 – 12 months post treatment
• Tattooing / Cosmetic Tattooing – 3 months
• IPL / Laser hair removal – 2 weeks
• IPL skin treatments – 2 weeks
• Laser Resurfacing/Ablative – 8 weeks
• Strong chemical peels – PH lower than 3.1. – wait 2 weeks
• Botulinum Toxin – 2 weeks
• Dermal Fillers – Hyaluronic Acid & Vital Hydrate – 2 weeks
• Dermal Fillers – Sculptra – 6 week

Stop using/taking 1 week before commencing treatments:

• Fish Oils / Plant oils / Omega 3s
• Ginseng / Gingko Biloba / St Johns Wart
• Retinoids
• Topical antibiotics
• Exfoliants and/or AHA or BHA
• Benzoyl peroxide / adapelene (Differin)
• Hydroquinone / kojic acid / azelaic acid
• Anti-inflammatory medications such as ibuprofen. These will interfere with the natural inflammatory process that is critical for your skin rejuvenation.
• Waxing or depilatory creams on the area to be treated

I hope you have a little more understanding of how skin needling works, its function, benefits and contraindications.

Blog written by Dermal philosophy